Tuesday 1st February 2011

The weather was good, nice and sunny as we set off for Ronda, we were wrapped up for the cold as the city is high in the hills/mountains, not sure when one becomes the other! But it had snow in January! There is only one road up from Marbella to Ronda and it is an hour’s drive along a good but twisting mountain road. It was a spectacular drive. As you leave the coast, you drive past exclusive Golf & Country Clubs dotted amongst the hillside and large detached villas with incredible views. Once you climb above them, you are into the mountains and slowly wind your way up via hairpin bends. You don’t stop climbing for around 45 minutes. The local van and lorry drivers overtake anywhere and don’t hang around! Once you reach the top it becomes a hilly plateau covered in farms. Ronda sits a little way in, on both sides of a deep gorge. The old part on one side and the much larger newer on the other. As you approach the city you pass new housing developments which unusually for Spain are just rows of identical terraced houses, it reminded me of a military base or prison, I can only think it’s to keep the cost down. But it looks awful.

We drove through the new part of the city and fairly easily found the old historic part, including the bullring for which it is famous. Parked the car in an underground carpark (remember those Chris!), as there was no other parking, and set off on foot to explore. First port of call was a café overlooking the square. We sat in the sun (nice in the sun, chilly in the shade) and planned our route. We came to the conclusion that around town the Spanish are much more laidback and forgiving than us. They will wait patiently as the car in front just stops to load or unload passengers, shopping etc, causing an instant tailback! However once they get out of town they either refuse to overtake anything no matter how slow it’s going or will overtake from six cars back just before a blind bend!

Anyway back to Ronda, after coffee we had a walk around and found a small park with incredible views over the valley. We stopped and took some photos, had lunch in the sun admiring the views. The place was spotless and clearly well looked after, as is all the old part of the city. Tourism is clearly a big earner with loads of expensive hotels and restaurants.

After lunch we went to the bullring, which claims to be the oldest and largest working bullring and the one where the modern style of bullfighting began. Bullfighting was the sport of nobles and the rich who fought the bulls from horseback. Ronda is credited with starting the now usual form of bullfighting on foot. This enabled the poor (and slightly mad) to participate. The bullring was originally built by the local Spanish cavalry who closely aligned the high standard of horsemanship required to be a cavalry officer, with the skills required to take part in bullfighting. This bullring is great to tour as you are allowed everywhere. We hired one of the audio guides and set off. It gave you the history and described the various stages of the bullfight. You could follow the footsteps of the matador from the small chapel, into the ring and the journey the poor bull takes, as well as walk around the actual ring itself.

They still operate a riding school as part of the bullring and teach up to international level. We stood in a viewing area of the indoor ménage and you could sense the seriously high standards they would demand here, not quite “Limebrook” hey Em!

Whatever you think of bullfighting and I’m not convinced by some of their rationale for the methods used, this place just oozed history, drama and tension. They still have bullfights here once a year in September, when thousands flock to the town to watch the spectacle, not just of the bullfight but of the processions etc. The Spanish royal family have a royal box and have attended in the past, so you can imagine the clamour for tickets!

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the old town which is wonderful, with alleyways, small courtyards filled with orange trees and incredible views, definitely somewhere to return to!